Wednesday, May 16, 2012

The Presidential Election


Update: I wrote this article between the first and second rounds of the French presidential election. As you probably know, François Hollande (photo on right), the Socialist Party candidate, was elected president of the French republic, beating Nicolas Sarkozy 51.63% to 48.37%.

I’m not sure if you have been hearing a lot about them in the States, but France is currently in the middle of their presidential elections. The system works a lot different than ours: there are no primaries, but in order to be an official candidate you have to first collect the signatures of at least five hundred elected representatives from a minimum of 10 different départements (the equivalent of counties in the US, Besançon is located in the départment du Doubs, Dijon is located in the département de Coté d’Or). These could be mayors, general counsels, regional counselors, deputies, senators or members of the European Parliament elected in France. The elections take place in 2 cycles (what they call tours), which are spaced 15 days apart (both are always on Sundays). In the first cycle there is no limit to the number of candidates, but the second round consists of a head-to-head between to the two candidates who received the most votes in round one.

This year there were 10 candidates, but in 2002 there were 16! This can often lead to the kind of situations which can plague the U.S. primaries, where the presence of lots of long-shot candidates who steal votes from more mainstream candidates and result in the “most popular” candidate winning by a relatively small majority. In the case of France 2002, because leftists voted for one of the many socialists candidates, in round two they were left with a choice between Chirac (UMP, equivalent of Republican Party in the US) and LePen (FN, extreme right).

This year the four major candidates were: Nicolas Sarkozy (current president, head of the UMP), François Hollande (PS – socialist party), Marine LePen (daughter of the LePen who ran in 2002, FN) and Jean-Luc Mélenchon (Front de Gauche – far left/communist). The final results were : Hollande 28%, Sarkozy 25%, LePen 19%, and Mélenchon 13%. That means that on Sunday, May 6, the French people will vote for either Hollande or Sarkozy. The participation rate for round one 70%, which is about average for the first round. For the second round, the participation rate is usually closer to 85-87%. To give you an idea of how this compares to the US, in 2008 the participation rate was 63%, which was the highest ever since 1960. The record in the US was in 1964 when nearly 70% of the population voted.

Some interesting facts I learned about voting and the presidency in France:
  • There is no such thing as an absentee ballot – you can’t vote in advance or by mail, but you can designate someone else to vote for you (bizarre, right). For example,  my roommates Stéph and Charly left for Montreal on Saturday afternoon and Stéph told me that she designated her sister to vote for her, and she was planning to call said sister on Saturday night to tell her how to vote.
  •  The French don’t vote for anything else at the same time as the presidential vote, just the president.
  •  The term of the presidency lasts 5 years. It was changed via a constitutional referendum in 2000, during Jacque Chirac’s presidency. Before it was 7 years per term.
  • There is no ballot in the sense we’re used to thinking of. This came to my attention because the elections have been a hot topic, I’ve been asking a lot about the process and then I also got to go with Colin when he voted on Sunday. For the set-up, it’s very similar to what we do in the U.S.: each resident votes at the location designated by his or her district. For Colin this location was his old elementary school. Outside the voting location was an official set of ten metal display boards with each candidate’s poster (see the picture above right). I saw similar boards set up outside Ecole Bourgogne in Planoise. Each voter walks into the voting location to find a table with envelopes and little stacks of slips of paper, one stack per candidate. The voter selects which candidates he or she wants to choose from (for example, if you don’t want the other people around to know who you are going to vote for, or if you’re not sure) and then takes one envelope and the slips of paper into the voting booth. They then put one of the slips of paper in the envelope, seal it, and exit the voting booth. The volunteers who are waiting at a table across the room verify the voter’s form of identification (I know Colin took both his national ID card and his driver’s license, but I’m not sure which he used). While I was waiting I read the list of acceptable forms of ID. There must have been at least 10 including the standard passport, national ID card, driver’s license. But there was also “official hunting license with picture,” which I found pretty amusing. Before putting each voter’s envelope in the big clear plastic box, the volunteer read off their legal name and then pronounced “a voté” (as in “Lauren Frisch Dayton… has voted). Although the process of voting is different, the voting location and atmosphere in general felt very similar to when I have voted at home. 

Pot de Départ (Going Away Party)


So I decided about a month before my departure that I wanted to organize a final soirée to ensure that I could hang out with the whole team together one more time before I left. And at the time there were lots of Ultimate tournaments being planned and I was worried all of the weekends would be filled up if I waited too long to suggest something. But I had a minor logistics problem: the apartment I share with Stéph and Charly is plenty big for the three of us, but even the eight of us when I hosted the raclette was just at the limit of too many. I figured we would be between 12-20 if most of the people from the team showed up, and that would definitely be too many. Gaëtan helped me look into a couple of options (like the place where they held the annual team meeting/welcome party), but it didn’t look very promising. Then Marion offered to let us have the party at her apartment. Marion doesn’t play on the team, but she hangs out with us regularly (she’s come to the Brass’ with us often and I went ice-skating with her and Gaëtch once). Her apartment was perfect! It’s on the Citadelle-side of the city center, and a spacious apartment for one person. We had just enough room without having too much extra. 

For the theme, I wanted to do the foods and beverages I anticipate missing the most at home: cheese (eaten with baguette, of course), wine and beer.  That’s not a very original theme though, so I figured I’d make it a little harder and I told everyone they could only bring items whose name started with the same letter as his or her first name. For cheese it was the type (comté or mozzarella, for example), for wine it was the cépage (like Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay) and for beer it was the brand (such as Leffe or Guinness). It worked really well! Some people got creative too – Tété brought a tête de moine cheese (they didn’t put the accent on the label, so it looked like he had found a cheese with his exact first name), Joseph brought a fancy cut of ham as well (jambon in French), Jérémy and Florine brought me flowers in addition to their cheese and wine (jolies fleurs in French). I guess I should have thought more about the overlap in letters (John, Joseph, Jean-Guillaume and Jérémy made for four Js, Lucie, Lucas and I made 3 Ls, Franzi and Florian were stuck with very few F options for cheese and both brought Fourme d’Ambert). I couldn’t find a French L wine at all, but brought both Leffe and a German beer called LaTrappe to make up for it. Overall, people seemed to be really pleased with how the theme worked out though, and we had a great time!
 
The team surprised me with a few gifts: a beautiful silver watch with a black leather band, a funny “25” t-shirt (25 is the regional zip code, sort of like how people under 25 occasionally jokingly refer to Cincinnati as “the 5-1-3”), and a photobook with pictures of each of them with a note next to it. That last one was TéTé's idea (he's the guy next to me in the picture on the right), and then each team member wrote me a little note next to the pictures he printed out of each of them. I was really touched!

I wouldn't say was too rowdy, but some of us certainly didn't get home until the wee hours of the morning. And at one point Alex (the coach/captain) started trying on other people's clothing, which resulted in some pretty hilarious combinations. The party was a wonderful way to top off the 8 months I have spent with this very special group of people. I will miss them very very much!


Pont Battant (The Battant Bridge)


The last few months have been a really great time to be in the construction business in Besançon. I’ve already complained about them cutting down the beautiful plantanes on Quai Vieil Picard, turning Place Flore into a giant sand box and making my morning commute to Planoise a daily adventure. But the latest conflagration has been the destruction of Pont Battant, which I believe was built right after WWII. Although the actual bridge is not very old, the location has a right history. Based on geological findings, it’s fairly certain that there has been a bridge there since the days of Vesontio, the Roman town upon whose foundations the modern city of Besançon is built. Pont Battant is certainly the most well-known for the four main bridges which connect the boucle (the city center which is encircled by the River Doubs on three sides and the Citadelle on the fourth) to the other side of the river.

The bridge is important enough that they can’t just knock it down without first creating a temporary substitute. They have been working on said substitute, a passerelle (pedestrian bridge), for the last few weeks. The week before my departure they finished the installation of the passerelle, although when I passed on Tuesday afternoon (April 24) it was still not open. It was cool to see how they did it (using a crane placed on the existing bridge to lower the huge iron pylons they had welded together into the river and then welding them together once they were in place). Crossing the bridge is currently a big pain, not just because the walkway has been reduced to practically a single lane to leave the construction workers, cranes, etc the maximum amount of space, but because people frequently stop to watch the construction. Here are some pictures I took right before they installed the final section of the passerelle:




Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Anatomy of a French Ultimate Tournament

So you probably know that Ultimate Frisbee tournaments have occupied a fair few of my weekends over the past 5 years. And although the rules of the game are the same and the people are just as friendly, there are some elements of the tournaments here which are notably differnent from tournaments I've been to at home. There is one key difference I should note: at home I pretty much only participated in college-level Ultimate tournaments (except maybe the occasional 'hat tournament' -- referring to the hat from which players' names are drawn to pick the teams, rather than players registering for the tournament with a particular team). In any event, I'm pretty sure club-level tournaments operate the same way as college-level tournaments in the U.S., so that shouldn't affect the comparison I will draw below. Enough chatting, here are the differences:

1. Fields and game length
          Of course there are fields involved in American tournaments, I only mentioned this because I've noticed most tournaments (both indoor and outdoor) have only 1-2 fields. I don't think I've ever played in an American tournament with only 2 fields -- usually there are a minumum of 4 and at some of the bigger tournaments there are 12+. This means of course that only 2-4 teams can be playing at once, so there are fewer teams involved in the tournament and games are shorter. For example, at the N3 (national level 3, above regional level and below national level 2) tournament this weekend, there were 7 teams: Besançon, Strasbourg's first team, Strasbourg's second team, Metz, Nancy, Dijon and Voujeaucourt. Part of that is of course because there are only so many teams in the region and the other ones are in the lower (regional) level. But honestly we wouldn't have been able to host many more teams, because we only had 2 fields. Or games would have had to be shorter. They were already 45 minutes, which is half of the standard 90-minute game length in the US. I've never played in a game at home which had less than 60 minutes + a 15-minute "cap" (if the determined score to win hasn't yet been attained).



2. "Mixed" teams
          Technically all of the teams who played with this weekend were co-ed, but most teams only had 1-2 women (including ours, which had only Clémentine). This meant that often women were guarding men and vice-versa. Some women feel really strongly about this: either that it's unfair when men guard them or that it's an insult to their altheticism that they can only compete against other women. I go back and forth, because certain physical traits like height are extremely difficult to compensate for, particularly in Ultimate. This picture on the right illustrates this pretty effectively: Yves (known as Bob) is #25 and the girl in the white on his right is Clémentine, who also plays for Besançon. She's really quick, but so is Bob, and his arms are possibly twice as long as hers! On the other side of the argument, I will admit that I am often pleased when the other team chooses a guy to guard me -- it's sort of a point of pride. Anyway, in American Ultimate, the mixed teams often have a closer-to-even gender ratio and so the number of men and women on each team must always be equal. That couldn't be a rule in France because there aren't enough female players. This just makes for a different dynamic.


3. The buvette (buffet)
          The "Food bag" : a brown-paper grocery bag filled with (often unripe) bananas, a jar of peanut butter and some form of starch (usually a box of cereal or sliced bread). This is supposed to last for both days, and the food is usually gone by Saturday afternoon. I'm being a little harsh here, but the food bag passed out by the host team at American tournaments is usually something along these lines. In France, there's an uproar if the first croque monsieur sandwiches aren't ready by 11am. La buvette continued to be a novelty for me, even after I had attended half a dozen Ultimate tournaments. The spread was always impressive : coffee, bananas and apples, and breakfast tarts were often available beginning first thing in the morning, and lunch was usually cold sandwiches (but on fresh baguettes, with the local cheese, made by volunteers during the first games), croque monsieur sandwiches, many many kinds of pasta salad and savory "cakes." Then for dessert tarts, brownies, and little cakes or cookies, and to wash it all down: water, juice, soda, tea or beer. Can you imagine? Some tournaments had crepes too! I took pictures. They thought I was crazy, but I was impressed.


4. The post-game Spirit Circle
          The closest I have ever gotten to this in American matches is after the two teams give each other high-fives following the conclusion of a match, the captains might discuss any contested fouls or tense moments during the game. And usually we would cheer the name of the other team as a way of thanking them and maintaining good spirit. But in France (and in Europe in general, as far as I know), they have the "Spirit Circle." No Ouija board required. The two teams form a circle, seated or standing based on their fatigue, by alternating players. The losing team's captain or nominated speaker then proceeds to give a post-game talk, summarizing any good or bad points, and bringing up any issues or problems which occured during the game. Then the winning team's captain does the same thing. Sometimes these Circles last a really really long time. Usually they're pretty quick and uneventful, but when it gets down to debating the wording of a particular rule, they can last quite a while. I think it's an interesting idea, but I'm not sure I'll miss it when I go back to playing Ultimate in the U.S. because usually I think it takes much longer than necessary, and if there are real arguments then the Spirit Circle doesn't always resolve those either.


5. The Spirit-of-the-Game grading post-match and Spirit-of-the-Game award
          Not to be confused with the Spirit Circle, the Spirit-of-the-Game grading usually takes place immediately following the Circle. The two teams separate and fill out a score sheet giving the other team a grade based on five criteria including: understanding of the rules, absence of dangerous play and positive conduct both as a member of their own team and in interactions with the opposing team. These scores are out of 20 and 10 is considered "normal" (this apparently caused an issue in one of the first World Championships, not unlike the differences in scholastic grading, the Americans thought that 10/20 was a failing grade and apparently gave everyone unusually high marks). At the end of the tournament each team's cumulative Spirit scores are tallyed and the Spirit-of-the-Game award is given at the same time as the tournament champion is announced. The Friz'Bistonins were proud to have won the Spirit Award at 4 or 5 tournaments in a row while I was playing with them.


6. Round Robin rather than elimination-style
          Those of you who watch European soccer will understand this immediately, but for me, it took a little longer. All of the other Ultimate tournaments I have played in were the same format as the NCAA basketball championship: pool play leading to bracket play with elimination leading to a championship game. This isn't necessarily how it works in France though. For the regional tournaments leading up to the national tournament, each region has two rounds the phase aller and the phase retour, often with 3-4 weeks between them. At the phase aller every team in the region plays every other team, with the games spread out over Saturday and Sunday. Based on how many points each team scores, and how many points other teams score against them, the teams are ranked with a number value (for instance, +20 if a team scored 30 more points total than the combined number of points scored against them). Then at the phase retour, the teams do the same thing again. Whoever has the best record at the end, advances to the national level. I can see how this could be fairer, in that losing one game doesn't necessarily knock you out for the whole tournament. There are multiple divisions for each region (in ascending order): Regional 1, Regional 2, National 3, National 2, National 1. The names are sort of confusing, since the teams in National 3 still have to play against other N3 teams in their region before advancing the N3 national championship. But there you have it! During the indoor season, Besançon's first team won the N3 championship and was therefore bumped up to N2. The N2 teams who had the poorest performance in their tournament were bumped down to N3. In this way teams have to stay on top of their game to avoid descending the following year, and teams can rise one level per year if they really improve.

Back in the US of A, but Don't Worry, There Are Still A Few to Come

Well I left Besançon on Wednesday, April 25, on a train headed for Berlin. I spent a wonderful five days visiting my friend Lisa (full entry on that later), who is German and whom I met during an internship in Washington, D.C. two summers ago. Then, on Monday, April 30 I took a plane to D.C., via New York. It was a long flight (longer coming back, since you're going against the Earth's rotation). I got to spend an entire week visiting Claire which was amazing. It's crazy how although we hadn't seen each other in more than 9 months, we feel right back into our routine like the time hadn't passed at all. Jeremy even came up to visit on my last day there!

Now I'm back in Cincinnati, although I took a trip down to Vanderbilt to see Trey graduate, and the two of us will be headed to NYC this coming weekend to see one of his pieces performed in a music festival. I'm trying to get re-oriented to life at home (I only just unpacked on Sunday), and I am now applying for jobs. Law school applications are also on the to-do list (I'm hoping to start in the fall of 2013).

But despite all that, I hope to post the last few entries which I wrote on the various trains and planes I've taken in the last few weeks. So stay tuned!